Planning an Upper Colorado River Trip

Michele Crockett

River Beta
Blue raft floating through red rock canyon with evergreen pine trees on Upper Colorado River

The Upper Colorado is a wonderland of whitewater well known to many paddlers in Colorado. But if you’ve avoided this stretch because you’ve heard it’s crowded, consider giving it a shot. The Upper C has many options for both hardcore paddlers and families looking for a low-hassle overnighter relatively close to Denver. Here’s a guide to running the Upper Colorado, including tips on camping, access sites, whitewater difficulty, and more.

Blue raft against a backdrop of pines and red cliffs along the Upper Colorado River
Blue raft against a backdrop of pines and red cliffs along the Upper Colorado River

The section referred to as the Upper Colorado starts near Kremmling and runs through Glenwood Canyon. The whitewater starts at the top with a big bang at with Gore Canyon, the toughest commercially run stretch of whitewater in Colorado. But aside from Gore, you’ll find plenty of Class II and Class III whitewater and multiple access sites so you can put together a trip of about any length and excitement level.

Optimal flow levels for the Upper Colorado are about 1,500 cfs to 3,300 cfs, according to American Whitewater. The Upper C is generally runnable from early May through late August or early September.

You’ll find an overview of the cultural and historical features in the Upper Colorado river guide published by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM), including its time as the home of the Ute Tribe, as the homesteading target of early settlers, and as the site of the railroad extension from the Front Range. (An early 20-century fight over whether to dam Gore Canyon or build a railroad through it was resolved by President Teddy Roosevelt—the railroad won.) 

Cliff wall on the Upper Colorado River with stripes from high water and lichen deposits
Cliff wall on the Upper C with stripes from high water and lichen deposits

The Upper Colorado starts close to the source of the Colorado River itself, which springs from snowmelt in the Never Summer Mountains in northwest Colorado, and rages through Gore Canyon below Kremmling. Gore Canyon is a Class IV-V run and home of the annual GoreFest, a loosely organized paddling festival. American Whitewater’s Gore Canyon page has detailed instructions and terrific photos about how to navigate this heart-tripping 11-mile stretch. The boat launch for Gore Canyon is at Confluence Recreation Site, accessible on County Road 1 (Trough Road) off Highway 9 south of Kremmling.

The takeout for Gore Canyon is the Pumphouse Recreation Area, which is the starting point for the busiest river sections, which have varied whitewater, great scenery, and beautiful camps—ideal for weekend river trips, especially for families with kids past the toddler stage. The ideal trip for families wanting some whitewater and wilderness camping is Pumphouse to Rancho del Rio. But for those wanting essentially no whitewater, options abound for long floats from Rancho through Catamount Bridge, and from Pinball through Bair Ranch. (The section from Catamount to Pinball has a couple of Class III rapids.)

Boat ramps at Pumphouse Recreation Area on the Upper Colorado River near Kremmling, Colorado
Relatively mellow afternoon at Pumphouse Recreation Area, the takeout for the experts-only Gore Canyon run and the beginning of a beautiful intermediate Class II-III run

Hiking trails along the Upper Colorado

Abundant hiking opportunities are available on the Upper Colorado, including the out-and-back Gore Canyon Trail, accessible from the Pumphouse Recreation Area, and various trails accessible from camps between Pumphouse and State Bridge.

Choosing the right section of the Upper Colorado for your crew

Because of the many access points along the Upper Colorado, you can customize a trip that suits your crew’s available time and paddling abilities. For extreme paddlers, Gore Canyon is the destination. For families with older kids and at least intermediate paddling abilities, the section from Pumphouse to Rancho del Rio is a good fit. For rank beginners and tiny tots, the sections below Rancho are mellow floats, but camping opportunities are limited. 

Yarmony Rapid on the Upper Colorado River
Yarmony Rapid on the Upper Colorado River

Here’s a quick rundown of the main sections of the Upper Colorado:

  1. Gore Canyon (Highway 9 to Pumphouse Recreation Area): Class IV-V whitewater for experts only. 
  2. Pumphouse Recreation Area to Radium Recreation Site: 4-mile stretch with 5 on-river campsites and three named Class II/III rapids: Wake Up (Class II), Needle’s Eye (Class II/III), and Mary’s Wall (Class II). This section also includes the small Warm Springs, accessible both from the river and from a trail that comes down from the cliff above.
  3. Radium to Rancho del Rio: 6-mile stretch with 9 on-river campsites and a couple of notable rapids: Red Eye (Class II) and Yarmony (Class III). 
  4. Rancho del Rio to State Bridge: 4-mile stretch with virtually no whitewater and a mix of campsites, some of which are close to railroad tracks, have trail access, and/or vehicle access—if you’re looking for a wilderness camping experience, consider camping in the Pumphouse or Radium sections.
  5. State Bridge to Two Bridges: 4.7-mile section with no whitewater and one campsite.
  6. Two Bridges to Catamount Bridge: 10-mile section with no whitewater and no on-river campsites. 
  7. Catamount Bridge to Pinball: 9.4-mile section with two Class II/III rapids and no on-river camping.
  8. Pinball to Horse Creek: 8.5-mile sections with no whitewater and no designated on-river campsites, although dispersed camping is available in the Red Dirt Creek Open Space from mile 52.5 to 54.4.
  9. Horse Creek to Cottonwood Island: 5.3-mile section with no whitewater and on-river camping near the Cottonwood Island Recreation Site.
  10. Cottonwood Island to Lyons Gulch: 2.5-mile section with no whitewater and no camping. 
  11. Lyons Gulch to Dotsero Landing: 4-mile section 

The BLM river guide includes a list of the most popular, marked on-river campsites with notes on availability of shade, access to hiking trails, number of tents the site can accommodate, and location.

Standup paddleboarders on a calm section of the Upper Colorado River below Pumphouse Recreation Area
Standup paddleboarders on a calm section of the Upper Colorado River below Pumphouse Recreation Area

Campsites on the Upper Colorado River

Navigating the campsite situation on the Upper C is somewhat of a mystery at first because there are first-come/first-served sites at some of the access points (some of these will be shifted to reserved sites starting in 2024), marked campsites along the river corridor that are first-come/first-served, and dispersed camping allowed anywhere on public land along the river corridor unless otherwise posted. (You’ll even find cabins and car camping options at Rancho del Rio.) The downside of this setup is that you can hope to spend some nights camping on the river but not find a suitable spot available since you can’t reserve sites in advance. On the other hand, you could easily put together a couple of nights of car camping with day floats by using the access point sites, which would be a great option for families or anyone who doesn’t have the energy or time to organize all the required gear for an overnight river trip. 

Cedar Camp on the Upper Colorado River
Cedar Camp on the Upper Colorado River, one of the many beautiful, sandy, spacious on-river camping areas available on a first-come basis

If you just want to run a day float on the Upper Colorado, you need a day pass (available on-site) to park at the access points. State park passes aren’t accepted, and the day-use pass is required for shuttled vehicles and boaters meeting commercial outfitters. 

Here’s a guide to the camping options at the access points, dispersed camping areas, and marked sites. 

Camping rules and day use fees at Pumphouse Recreation Area on the Upper Colorado River
Rules posted at Pumphouse for developed creation sites
Fee area rules

Pumphouse Recreation Area

The busiest access point on the Upper C, Pumphouse Recreation Area has multiple amenities, including: 

  • 3 boat launch ramps
  • 12 vault toilets
  • Trash bins
  • Day use and overnight parking
  • 18 single campsites ($10 per site) for up to 10 people each, including one vehicle pass ($5 for each additional vehicle pass including motorcycles or bikes used for shuttles or recreation), each with some parking, a picnic table, and a fire ring
  • 2 group campsites ($30 per site) appropriate for a maximum of 30 people, including one vehicle
  • Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) compliant toilets and some ADA parking
  • Picnic tables and benches
  • Potable water available to paddlers, but not intended for trailer hookups or RV fill-ups—availability of this water source isn’t guaranteed, so I recommend bringing your own for overnight camping

To claim one of the single campsites, you simply look for one that’s available and then leave your payment at the pay station. You can use a group campsite if it’s not served (check the bulletin board at the entry). 

Two kayakers surfing in ledge hole and an approaching raft downstream of Pumphouse Recreation Area on the Upper Colorado River
Kayakers playing in the ledge below Pumphouse as a raft approaches

Radium Recreation Site

Located 4 miles downstream from Pumphouse, Radium has:

  • 2 boat ramps
  • 9 vault toilets
  • Day use and overnight parking
  • 16 single campsites ($6 per site for a maximum of 10 people, including one vehicle—additional vehicle passes are $5)
    • Camps 1-4 are walk-ins and have parking space for one vehicle
    • Camps 5-13 have pull-through parking that can fit 1-2 vehicles and trailers
    • Camps 14-16 have pull-in parking for vehicles and trailers of 30 feet or less
  • 2 group campsites ($30 per site for a max of 30 people, including one vehicle—additional vehicle passes are $5
  • 3 day-use shade structures
Two kayakers paddling on the Upper Colorado River between Pumphouse Recreation Area and Radium Recreation Site
Kayakers on the Upper Colorado between Pumphouse and Radium

Rancho del Rio

Rancho del Rio is a private enterprise located 6 miles downstream of Radium that offers lodging of various sorts, an outdoor eatery and bar featuring BBQ, a general store, liquor store, WiFi, and shuttle services running from April to November. Note that Rancho del Rio does NOT have cell service.

KK's BBQ outdoor eatery on the banks of the Upper Colorado River at Rancho del Rio resort
Casual eats available at Rancho del Rio on the Upper Colorado River

Available lodging includes campsites (including RV sites but with no hook-ups) and cabins furnished with linen and towels. Potable water is available for limited use (not for filling RVs), and there is no dump station available. 

Rancho del Rio has a huge boat ramp that used by commercial outfitters and private boaters. It’s a bustling little village—not a wilderness camping experience, but certainly a place where you can stock up on gear, get a bed for the night, and grab some BBQ and a beer.

Rancho del Rio resort on the Upper Colorado River
Rancho del Rio resort on the Upper Colorado has a huge boat launch ramp, cabins, shuttle service, a BBQ restaurant, general store, and more

State Bridge river access (no camping)

This access point (with fees managed by Eagle County Open Space) on river-left 4 miles downstream of Rancho del Rio has a boat launch, toilets, and non-potable water, changing rooms, and trash service—but no overnight camping. However, you can score accommodations at State Bridge Lodge, which offers cabins, dog-friendly yurts, and fancy glamping tents. Although you can’t simply float up to State Bridge Lodge, it could be the perfect take-out lodging before you head home.

Two Bridges river access (no camping)

About 4.7 miles downstream of State Bridge, the Two Bridges river access point has a boat launch, parking, and toilets. Access fees are managed by Eagle County Open Space.

Catamount Bridge Recreation Site

Ten miles downstream of Two Bridges, Catamount Bridge Recreation Site has toilets, 5 campsites, and a boat launch.

Pinball Recreation Site

Pinball, 9.4 miles downstream of Catamount, has a toilet and one campsite, but the boat access is a half-mile further downstream.

Horse Creek River Access (no camping)

A no-fee site, Horse Creek River Access on the Colorado River Ranch has a boat launch and toilets but no camping.

Red Roc campsite on the Upper Colorado River between the Radium Recreation Site and Rancho del Rio
Red Rock camp, an on-river campsite between Radium and Rancho del Rio

Required gear for floating the Upper Colorado River

The U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM) recommends the following gear for overnight trips on the Upper Colorado:

  • Fire pan 12 inches in diameter with 1.5-inch lip. During a fire ban, you don’t need to carry a full-scale fire pan, according to BLM rangers I’ve spoken to as you’re not permitted to have a fire anyway. However, for emergencies, you should carry a lightweight metal pan (a roasting pan with a lid is the suggestion I hear most often). If you use a fire pan, elevate it so it doesn’t scorch the ground, and pack out your ashes. Do not dispose of them in the river. 
  • River toilet (groover) or other leak-proof container if you’re paddling a small-volume boat. Plan to pack out both human waste and pet waste. Although toilet facilities are available at some of the access points on the Upper C, dumping your groover waste into those facilities is not cool. The BLM defines an approved toilet as “any non-biodegradable, durable container designed to receive and hold human waste in any container position.” In other words, it should be leakproof and spillproof. For more information about options for packing out human waste, see “Picking the Best River Toilet.” 
  • Personal flotation devices (PFDs) for all
  • Fresh water: Although some access points have water available, the BLM recommends bringing your own water if feasible because some water supplies at the access point aren’t reliable. Check out “3 Essential Water Filters for River Trips (and Other Clean Water Supply Tips)” for more information about ensuring fresh water for your float trip.

FAQs about floating the Upper Colorado River

Is the Upper Colorado River appropriate for family floats?

Many sections of the Upper Colorado are perfect for families with young children. Depending on the age and experience of your river crew, some good options are the section from Pumphouse Recreation Area to Rancho del Rio, which makes an excellent overnighter. If you want no whitewater at all, consider the section from Rancho del Rio to Two Bridges. (See the river section descriptions above for more details or study the BLM’s Upper Colorado River guide.)

Do you need a permit to paddle the Upper Colorado?

No, you don’t need a permit to paddle the river. However, you will need to pay access fees at various boat launch sites. Different entities manage access points along the Upper Colorado, so check the signs at the access points for details or read the BLM’s Upper Colorado River guide.)

What gear is recommended on the Upper Colorado?

The Bureau of Land Management (BLM), which manages the Upper Colorado, recommends a fire pan (except in times of fire bans), a leak-proof system for packing out human waste, and personal flotation devices (PDFs) for all river runners. In addition, consider bringing your own water for drinking, or bring a water filter to avoid water-borne illnesses including norovirus. Check out “3 Essential Water Filters for River Trips (and Other Clean Water Supply Tips)” for more information on bringing fresh water or filtering river water. For a guide to river toilets, see “Picking the Best River Toilet.”

Where can you camp on the Upper Colorado River?

The Upper Colorado has campsites with various amenities at many of the boat access points along the river, as well as many marked on-river campsites. In addition, you can camp anywhere you want in BLM public lands. To see a map of campsites, check the interactive Upper Colorado River Recreation Guide.

Are fireworks or firearms allowed on the Upper Colorado River?

Fireworks and firearms are prohibited on federal public lands, including the Upper Colorado River corridor.

Is the Upper Colorado River appropriate for standup paddleboards?

Yes, the Upper Colorado River has many sections that are perfect for beginning or intermediate paddleboarders, including the section from Pumphouse to Rancho del Rio (for intermediate paddlers) or the section from Rancho del Rio to Two Bridges (for beginners).

Are there bears along the Upper Colorado River corridor?

Yes, American black bears (which can be dark black, brown, cinnamon or blond in color) live in the Upper Colorado River area. To avoid bear encounters, keep food in bear-proof containers and following other practices recommended at BearWise, a resource developed by a consortium of state agency bear biologists.

What’s the best time of year to run the Upper Colorado River?

Optimal flow for rafting or kayaking the most popular section of the Upper Colorado River, from Pumphouse to State Bridge, is between about 1,500 cfs and 3,300 cfs. This section is generally runnable from early May through late August.

Is the Upper Colorado River a good place to fish?

Yes, you can fish for rainbow, brown, and native cutthroat trout on the Upper Colorado River. For more information about fishing regulations and buying a license, check out Colorado Parks and Wildlife.

Rafts and a standup paddleboarder in a calm eddy on the Upper Colorado River
Commercial rafts and families mingle on a bluebird day in August on the Upper Colorado River

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