Floating Ruby-Horsethief Canyon on the Colorado River is the first introduction to paddling and river camping for many budding river rats—and their kids. At 25 miles, it’s reasonable to float as an overnighter, and the mellow water and sandy beaches make it perfect for a family rafting or kayaking trip. It’s certainly not undiscovered, but it’s a classic for a reason—it’s one of the best overnight family floats in Colorado. Here’s a complete guide to planning a float trip through Ruby-Horsethief Canyon, including how to acquire a permit, best times of year to run this section, and essential gear.

Woman on stand-up paddleboard on Colorado River in Ruby-Horsethief Canyon
Ruby-Horsethief Canyon on the Colorado is a perfect trip for stand-up paddleboarders
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Table of Contents

Where is Ruby-Horsethief Canyon?

The popular Ruby-Horsethief Canyon float section on the Colorado River starts in northwest Colorado in Loma (near Grand Junction, about 4.5 to 5 hours west of Denver) and ends in Westwater, UT. (The Westwater take-out is the start of the popular Westwater Canyon section of the Colorado, which is a significant step up in whitewater, with rapids up to Class IV.) The river flows through red-rock canyons along a gentle gradient. In the Black Rocks section, the river narrows and eddy lines can be hard to cross, depending on the level. The eponymous black rocks are Vishnu Schist, exposed here briefly and then dipping back underground. Expect to see blue herons and, if you’re lucky, bighorn sheep on the slopes above.

Black Rocks camp in Ruby-Horsethief Canyon on Colorado River
Bighorn sheep pose on the namesake black rocks at one of the Black Rocks campsites, having made their way to the river for a drink

What’s the best time of year to float Ruby-Horsethief?

Summertime is of course the most popular time for this quintessential family river trip, but I think fall trips are the best if you want to enjoy cooler weather and fewer bugs. You can conceivably float this section year-round (we once did an overnight on Thanksgiving, which was cold camping but we had sunny days on the river). Although you can typically expect higher winds in the spring, as well as rain, you should be prepared for any type of weather no matter what time of year you run Ruby-Horsethief.

Does the Ruby-Horsethief Canyon section have rapids?

With primarily Class I and Class II rapids, Ruby-Horsethief is perfect for families and for beginners in kayaks, paddleboards, and rafts. You can expect a few small wave trains, and the river is big, but it’s a perfect starter river trip. It’s a great way to get your gear dialed in and experience a nice canyon with low stakes. The Colorado River is a high-volume river at this point in its journey, so take caution if the river flows are high, typically in late spring and early summer: The Bureau of Land Management, which manages river use for Ruby-Horsethief, recommends flows of 5,000 cfs or less for family trips.

How long does it take to float Ruby-Horsethief?

The Ruby-Horsethief section is 25 miles, which you can easily run as an overnighter given that the river moves along at a good clip, even at lower water. You can expect to make at least 5 miles per hour even in shoulder-season flows, so you can look forward to plenty of time for hiking and hanging out in camp. You can reserve campsites for multiple days (although no layovers are permitted in the Black Rocks section), but the trip is fairly short, so one or two nights is the typical length.

Are Ruby-Horsethief Canyon campsites reserved?

Yes. Although no permit is required for day use of the area, you need to register for an overnight camping permit in advance. Camping permits, which are limited, become available on the Recreation.gov website two months before the day of the permit. So, if you want to reserve a permit for August 10th, you should be on the website at 8:00 a.m. June 10th. The first step is to set up your account on the Rec.gov site and make a ranked list of campsites you’re interested in. I recommend logging in the night before to check which sites are still available and confirm that your account is properly set up. Permits, especially for summer weekends, go quickly so plan ahead to ensure you can get the permit you want. Consider launching on a weekday, if you can, to avoid some of the permit competition.

It’s best to have a list of a couple of campsites so you know what your backups are if your first choice is taken on the day you reserve your permits. Depending on your group size and makeup, trip length, and logistics on both sides of the trip, you might want to plan a short first or last day, or aim for a Black Rocks campsite where kids can play on rocks all afternoon. For descriptions and photos of campsites, check out the Rec.gov information or download the Ruby-Horsethief guide from GoRafting on FarOut apps (affiliate link), which has useful commentary on the size of group that each campsite can accommodate, available shade, and the distance to previous and next camps.

Beautiful Black Rocks section of Ruby-Horsethief on a crisp November morning

What guides or maps are available for Ruby-Horsethief?

I recommend the RiverMaps Guide to the Colorado & Green Rivers in the Canyonlands of Utah & Colorado. This map covers Labyrinth and Stillwater Canyons on the Green, as well as the Colorado from Loma down through Ruby-Horsethief, Westwater, and Cataract Canyons. The detailed descriptions of access points, campsites, and side hikes are extremely useful for trip planning. While you’re on the water, you can use the topographical maps and campsite markings to work out where you are. Since there are reserved campsites and the river is heavily used, you really don’t want to miss your campsite. If you don’t mind bringing your phone along, download the GoRafting guide for Ruby-Horsethief Canyon, Colorado River on FarOut apps to your smartphone: Even without cell service, the app will use GPS to show you where you are and has useful icons for locating campsites, hikes, and other features.

How to plan your Ruby-Horsethief float trip

  1. Choose your timing and acquire your permit: Mark your calendar for 2 months before the day you want to launch. On that day, be prepared to log on to the Rec.gov site at 8 a.m. (with your account already set up) to apply for a permit. At some points of the year, you might be able to pick up a cancellation. You can check availability of camping permits at Rec.gov. Have your preferred campsites in hand. Important note: To discourage no-shows, starting with the 2023 season you must check in at the BLM ranger station or at the check-in kiosk on your launch date before starting your trip. Permit holders who fail to check in will have their permits cancelled and will not be allowed to apply again until the end of the following year. If you have a permit and you need to cancel, be sure to log in to Rec.gov and cancel your permit so other boaters can use it.
  2. Pay for your permit: There are fees for permits from April through October: As of this writing, the fees are $6 per permit and either $20, $50, or $100 per night for the campsites, depending on your group size. Note that the group size is measured in “heartbeats”: dogs count towards your group size. You can have no more than two dogs on any trip.
  3. Get fishing licenses. The put-in for Ruby-Horsethief, Loma Boat Launch, is a Colorado State Wildlife Area. Each person 18 years of age or older must have a fishing license to access Loma Boat Launch. As of this writing, the one-day fishing license fee is $16.94 for nonresidents and $13.90 for Colorado residents.
  4. Make sure you have all the required gear. Your permit will list all the regulations, but at a minimum you will need PFDs for everyone, spare oars and paddles, repair kits for each type of craft, a river toilet (check our post on choosing the best river toilet), a whistle, and a fire pan. Note that even when there is a fire ban, you will be required to bring a fire pan in case of emergencies.
  5. Bring the right paddling gear for the weather. Summertime floats in Ruby-Horsethief can get extremely hot, so plan accordingly. Be sure to bring enough water and ensure that everyone in your group has proper sun-protection clothing and sunscreen. (Check out our posts on water filters and water containers and tips for sun-protection clothing.) If you are floating Ruby-Horsethief in the late fall or winter, keep in mind that even if the daytime temps are pleasant, it will get cold at night. Check out our tips for staying warm on cold-weather trips here.
  6. Plan your trip—meals, gear, people, and other logistics. Here’s our guide to river trip planning.
  7. Decide whether to pay for a shuttle company or self-shuttle. The self-shuttle option is fairly easy as you are on I-70 the whole time. The put-in for this section is at Loma Boat Launch: From Fruita, CO, take I-70 west to the Loma exit 15 (highway 50). The takeout is over the Utah line at the Westwater exit (227) off I-70. But you can save some time by paying a shuttle company. Rimrock Adventures in Fruita runs shuttles, and you can also rent any additional gear you require from them. They have saved our bacon a couple of times when we’ve forgotten crucial pieces of gear.

What you need to know about floating the Colorado through Ruby-Horsethief

Much as I love this canyon (and you will, too), here are some points to consider when planning your float:

  1. Popularity. This is an extremely popular trip. You will need to be quick on your mouse finger to get a camping permit, and then be prepared to see many other parties on the river. If you’re looking for solitude and contemplation, look elsewhere: many of the campsites are closely spaced enough that you will be able to hear other parties from your campsite.
  2. Wind. The bane of float trips. The upriver wind can be brutal on this trip, particularly on the last day. This is not the trip for a paddle raft powered by kids. I once saw a frustrated oarsman sit in a giant eddy within a quarter mile of the takeout for at least 20 minutes battling the wind. Make sure to get launched early in the day, or try to plan for a lower-river campsite so your last day is shorter.
  3. Motors. This might be an upside for some! Motors are allowed in Ruby Canyon, so you might decide to simply strap your rafts together and motor out on the last day. However, if you’re behind the oars trying to enjoy the sound of the river, it can be distracting to hear motors.
Ruby-Horsethief Canyon on Colorado River
Late afternoon sun on a Ruby float

What I love about floating the Colorado through Ruby-Horsethief

  1. Mellow water, beautiful scenery. This is classic Canyonlands country, so the scenery is gorgeous and the river is friendly for first-timers or anyone wanting a low-key float.
  2. Reserved campsites. While it can be frustrating trying to snag a permit, the hassle is totally worth it to know exactly how far you need to go each day on this heavily used river. There’s nothing worse than floating past four or five occupied campsites while the sun sinks lower and everyone’s bellies start to grumble.
  3. Easy shuttle. The shuttle for this trip is easy to DIY: it’s about an hour, round-trip, on I-70. The launch site is near Fruita in western Colorado off I-70 exit 15, and the take-out is 25 miles downstream at the Westwater exit in Utah. By the time your raft is rigged, your shuttle drivers will likely be back. They might have even picked up spare ice or breakfast burritos.
  4. Decent hiking. It’s possible to put together some pretty good hikes from camp, depending on where you’re camping. The Mee group of camps are linked by a trail leading eventually into the Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness. If you’re hiking, keep in mind that this is rugged territory and help is going to be difficult to reach if an accident occurs.
  5. Dogs are allowed! This is a terrific river trip for dogs because of the mellow whitewater. Keep in mind that the maximum number of dogs allowed is 2, and they count toward the party size limit of “25 heartbeats.” Bringing a dog on a river trip invites an extra level of chaos—check out our tips for what to think about before bringing your dog on a river trip.
Dog and woman on raft on Colorado River
Dogs are welcome on Ruby-Horsethief float trips

Easy weekend float

All in, Ruby-Horsethief is a great weekend float. Low stress, fun times playing in the water, and a beautiful canyon make this a great trip for many different types of groups—especially families and beginning paddlers.

Ruby-Horsethief Canyon on the Colorado River
Late afternoon in Ruby-Horsethief Canyon on the Colorado

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2 Comments

  1. Zach says:

    Great article. You may want to add a little clarification in regards to dogs. There is a limit of two dogs per group and dogs count as individuals in the group (i.e. if you have a 25 person group and you have 2 dogs on the trip, you can only have 23 people).

    1. Audrey Crockett says:

      Hi Zach, thanks for the feedback. Great point you made, and we’ll revise the post to clarify that you can have a total of “25 heartbeats.” Thanks for reading!