The Middle Fork of the Salmon River in Idaho is one of the most prized river trips for rafters and paddlers because of its singular beauty but also because of its exclusivity: Access for private boaters is controlled by a lottery permit system, and the odds are against you. For the 2023 river season, there were 21,000+ launch applications for a total of 375 available slots. If you happen to grab the golden ticket, here’s an in-depth trip planning guide for the Middle Fork.
Even if you’ve been running rivers for a very long time, experiencing the Middle Fork is like entering the forests of Rivendell. Everything about it seems mystical: Arriving at a forested put-in, lowering boats down a wooden ramp on a medieval pulley system (at least until the pulley system was heisted), and watching the river masters navigate sweep boats through visibly impossible channels.
The Middle Fork is so cherished by every boater lucky enough to run it because it has a unique combination of magical qualities. It’s remote. It’s gorgeous. It has serious whitewater. It’s well managed. (As an example, all parties choose their campsites before launching, which cuts down on camp running.) Also: Hot springs.
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Frequently Asked Questions about Middle Fork of the Salmon Raft Trips
The Middle Fork section starts about 20 miles northwest of Stanley, Idaho, and runs a 106-mile stretch through portions of the Challis, Payette, and Salmon National Forests. One of the original eight rivers designated as Wild and Scenic, the Middle Fork is breathtaking at every turn and serves up spicy whitewater and excellent fishing opportunities every day of the trip.
Mid-June to late July is the best time for running the Middle Fork of the Salmon to capitalize on good river flows without hitting insanely high water. Our crew has done the Middle Fork typically in mid to late July, so my perspective on the rapids is based on water levels of about 2.2 to 2.4 feet on the Middle Fork Lodge gauge—definitely on the low side. Low water brings a few challenges as well, but not the white-knuckle experience that a June high-water trip would be. To research water flows at various times of the year, refer to the USGS water levels for the Middle Fork.
For 14-foot rafts, the lowest comfortable level is about 2.2 feet. The section from Boundary Creek (the regular put-in) to Indian Creek is very tight and bony below that level. If you’re looking at a low-water trip in mid to late July or early August, consider getting flights for your crew and gear into the Indian Creek airstrip instead of putting in at the regular launch site at Boundary Creek. It’s seriously tight quarters in the upper stretch at low water, so although that additional layer of logistics seems like a huge drag, putting in at Indian Creek is recommended below about 2.2 feet. At lower water levels, switching to smaller rafts or kayaks will help you navigate the upper stretches. Here’s the link to the USGS water levels for the Middle Fork.
Rapids on the Middle Fork of the Salmon are fairly continuous from start to finish, with a good mix of Class II, Class III, and Class IV rapids. At lower water levels (2.5 feet or below), the Middle Fork is a fun stretch for intermediate kayakers, either in inflatables or hard boaters. This is an excellent river for paddle rafts: The thrills are continuous. (See below for more details about specific rapids.)
Trip leaders for each day’s private launches choose campsites in a round-robin session at the Boundary Creek ranger station. Carefully check your permit details for information about the timing for camp selection: It’s typically at 4:30 pm Pacific time the day before your launch date. Research the campsites that will be appropriate for your group size before this session, and have one or two backup sites in mind if you don’t get your first choice. Each group will likely get at least one camp with nearby access to hot springs, although that’s not guaranteed. Here’s a list of camp sites for research purposes.
The Middle Fork is one of the top fishing destinations in the U.S. It is a Blue Ribbon fishery for Westslope Cutthroat Trout. You will need an Idaho fishing license, which is easy to pick up at sporting goods stores in the state, but not available at the launch site. The Middle Fork is most catch-and-release: You can use artificial flies and lures with one barbless hook.
Yes, dogs are welcome on the Middle Fork. Because this is a whitewater trip, you’ll want to consider whether your dog will enjoy the rapids, will stay in the boat, and will refrain from running wild in camp. Lifejackets are essential for dogs on the Middle Fork. Be prepared to clean up after your dog: Pick up and pack out your dog’s poop. Don’t let your dog chase wildlife. For more tips on making your dog’s river trip safe and enjoyable for all, check out “10 Questions Before Your Bring Your Dog on a River Trip.”
All boats will need to be inspected for aquatic invasive species by U.S. Forest Service folks and tagged before they hit the water. You can get the inspection the day before or day of your launch. You’ll need to buy an Aquatic Invasive Species permit sticker for each boat longer than 10 feet. You can read more about this and buy your Idaho Invasive Species stickers here.
The Middle Fork of the Salmon river permit application period for the lottery season (typically late May through Labor Day weekend) opens on December 1 each year and closes January 31. Results are announced by mid-February. Lottery dates that were declined, cancelled, or not accepted are released on March 16. Permits are required year-round; shoulder-season permits can be reserved through Recreation.gov.
The popular permitted section for paddling the Middle Fork of the Salmon, from Boundary Creek to Cache Bar, is 104 miles. The number of days and nights you can spend on the river depends on your party’s size: For parties up to 10, the limit is 8 days, 7 nights. For parties up to 20, the limit is 7 days, 6 nights. For parties up to 24, the limit is 6 days, 5 nights.
Equipment required by the Forest Service for the Middle Fork include a portable toilet, fire pan, fire blanket, ash container, shovel, bucket, mesh strainer, Aquatic Invasive Species Sticker, life jackets and spare oars and paddles.
Rapids on the Middle Fork of the Salmon
The list of legendary Middle Fork rapids is long (check the end of this post for recommendations of detailed river guides), but here are some of the standouts in my book.
- Velvet Falls (mile 5.1) is a notorious raft flipper at high water, and tends to sneak up on you because of the busy Class II water above. Keep an eye out for Velvet Creek coming in on the right; the falls start about 20 feet below that. Common wisdom is to run on the left next to the huge boulder on the left bank. And if you want to spend countless hours watching folks flip, just search “Velvet Falls Middle Fork” on YouTube. (You can also see some clean runs.)
- Pistol Creek Rapid (21.4) is tricky. It’s long and the top part divides into a couple of channels: The right isn’t exactly a sneak route, but can be a good choice for paddlers who wants a swift chute rather than a terrifying drop. The left side is indeed a big drop. When you’re to the bottom of that first drop (whichever way you got there), you need to make an quick S turn to avoid washing up on a huge boulder pile at the bottom right and stay off the walls on the left.
- Marble Creek Rapids (mile 31.7) comes as the river bends sharply to the right, a fairly straightforward shot down the middle.
- Tappan Falls (mile 57.9), the biggest in the Tappan “series,” deserves a solid scouting session, which you can do from either bank. It’s challenging at any level because it spills over a curved, uneven ledge of huge boulders that each create various pour-overs and holes.
- Rubber (mile 91.9) has a sticky, big wave and not much room to maneuver—keep an eye on your IK paddlers through this one.
Downsides of the Middle Fork
No river is perfect, though the Middle Fork comes close. Here are points to consider about it:
- Drawing a permit is tough. The chance of getting a Middle Fork permit for 2023 was about 2%. But you gotta try. (Check out our river permit lottery submission guide for some tactics that might help.)
- Hitting it at the right level for your group is important. The Middle Fork is tough whitewater at high levels, and isn’t easy at low levels. Hitting that sweet spot of 2.5 to 3.5 feet—fun and challenging but not stressful—can be difficult
- Yellow jackets can be a menace. These little bastards can ruin an evening on the river, delivering painful and potentially dangerous stings. They were a huge factor on our first trip, and virtually nonexistent the second (the one exception being an oarsman getting a vicious sting on his knuckle as he was trying to line up for Cramer’s—rude). For a long discussion about the many attempts to conquer yellow jackets (and bees) on the Middle Fork, check out this thread on Mountain Buzz (grab a beer).
- You’ll need to share space at times. Although the campsites are designated, you’ll need to be cool with other parties parading through your camp if you’re at a popular hiking or hot springs spot, particularly Sunflower.
Upsides of the Middle Fork
No way to catalog all the Middle Fork’s stellar qualities, but here are a few for starters.
- Exceptional whitewater throughout. As always, study flow charts before (here’s a guide to analyzing river flows) you go make sure you’re not taking on more than your group can handle. But at mid-range water flows, the Middle Fork is just one interesting rapid after another for rafters and kayakers. If you have the personnel to pull it off, consider running at least one paddle raft: Paddle rafting the Middle Fork has been one of my favorite whitewater experiences ever. (We had a good paddle captain.)
- Scenery. Self-evident in any photo of the Middle Fork, but you really have to go there to feel the vast expanse of forest at your core.
- Fishing. The Middle Fork is a Blue Ribbon fishery for Westslope Cutthroat Trout, and the many tributaries cascading in from either side along the 100-mile stretch just add to the possibilities. T
- Dogs are welcome. Bringing dogs on river trips can add complications, but dogs who get to go on the Middle Fork are lucky indeed. Check out our guide to bringing dogs on river trips before you commit to that.
- Hot springs! Everywhere you turn, just when the air feels the tiniest bit chilly, you’ll come upon a hot spring that bubbles up and takes all your cares away. Hot springs are everywhere—just more delightful sparkles on this jewel of a river.
Middle Fork of the Salmon Trip Tips
Here are a few points about the Middle Fork to keep in mind in your planning. (And check out our guide to river trip planning.)
- Apply for a permit. It’s not easy to get a Middle Fork permit, but that’s the first step to this phenomenal experience. Check our tips (certainly not foolproof—some of us have been applying for 20+ years and not scored one) about how to apply for river permits. Here’s the link to apply for a permit at Recreation.gov. This application period starts on December 1 each year and closes January 31.
- Be aware that the camp selection process starts the day before launch at 4:30 pm Pacific time. (So, for most of our crew, this means that this trip essentially starts the day before the day before the launch as we have a 16-hour drive. Plan accordingly.) You don’t have to show up for camp selection, which is done in round-robin fashion with a representative from the group (which needs to be the permit holder or someone with the permit holder’s permission). And I guess you could say that any camp on the Middle Fork beats a night at a KOA. But if you can hand-select good situations for your particular crew, you should definitely try. The process involves lots of intricate rules, including the number of hot springs camps you can request (1), whether you can do a layover (only on a case-by-case basis), and whether a small group can take a big camp (generally not). Here’s a complete rundown of the check-in and campsite selection process.
- Be prepared for yellow jackets and bees. Be alert, and don’t invite them in. Again, the thread on Mountain Buzz is full of good advice and inventive measures.
- Pay attention to the water flow. The Middle Fork drastically changes character at different water levels, so pick a date that corresponds to a water level that’s good for your group. And don’t assume that low water flows are easy—some rapids (Tappan Falls) get dramatically harder at low water.
- Consider limiting the size of your party so you can spend more time on the river. Groups up to 10 people can stay up to 8 days (7 nights), groups of 11-20 can stay up to 7 days (6 nights), and groups of 21-24 can stay up to 6 days (5 nights). If you can keep your party small without alienating lifelong river friends, do that. You’ll want extra time to seize every opportunity to luxuriate in a hot spring or go for hikes. (Here’s a set of tips for organizing big trips.)
Planning your Middle Fork river trip
Here’s a quick rundown of how to plan a Middle Fork trip. If you’re new to RiverBent, check out our river planning section, which includes basic river trip planning guidelines for organizing meals and gear, packing, and more.
- Check out the U.S. Forest Service resources. Home base for Middle Fork planning is here.
- Read the published river guide books. As always, we recommend buying every guide you can get your hands on for every river you’re planning to run. More information is better. (Note: Some of the sources below contain affiliate links.)
- Guide to the Middle Fork and Main Salmon River, Idaho, published by RiverMaps. As with all RiverMaps guides, this is waterproof, detailed, essential.
- Middle Fork of the Salmon A Wild and Scenic River published by the Forest Service.
- The Middle Fork of the Salmon—A Comprehensive Guide
- Handbook to the Middle Fork of the Salmon River
- Middle Fork of the Salmon Fly Fishing Map
- GoRafting’s guide to the Middle Fork on the FarOut apps: This is a phone-based guide that is extremely handy either before or during your trip for researching locations of campsites, rapids, launch sites, and other points of interest. Even if you don’t want to use it on the river (involves bringing and turning on your phone, but doesn’t require cell service), it’s handy for research purposes. (For more trip planning resources, see “Best River Maps, Guidebooks and Apps for Rafters and Paddlers.“)
- Choose your timing. Again, you should carefully choose the window for launch dates in your permit application as the Middle Fork is serious whitewater at any level, but most forgiving at about 3 feet on the Middle Fork Lodge gauge. The timing window for that ideal level is small, about the first three weeks of July. Below about 2.5 feet (typically by late July), the section below the usual Boundary Creek put-in is very bony and you’ll want to consider flying people and gear in to the Indian Creek airstrip. Here’s the link to the USGS water levels for the Middle Fork. And here’s a guide to ciphering water level predictions.
- Apply for a permit. The lottery season is May 28 through September 3, and the application period runs December 1 through January 31 for the upcoming season. Lottery results are announced in mid-February, and permit winners need to confirm their reservation by March 15. You have about a 2% chance of drawing a permit, based on 2023 stats. Only seven permitted groups are allowed to launch each day, which keeps the Middle Fork wild and scenic for all of us. We don’t really have any surefire tips on how to improve your odds, but here’s our guide to applying for river permits, which lists important dates and processes. To apply for a Middle Fork permit and read about picking up cancellations, check out the Middle Fork of the Salmon info site on Recreation.gov.
- Study the camp site information in your guides. You’ll want to send your permit holder into the campsite selection process well-armed with first, second, and third choices for each night. Keep in mind that smaller groups are allowed by the Forest Service to spend more nights on the river: If you’re running at lower water, getting through the Middle Fork in 6 days will seem rushed. Also, if you’re a very small group (under 12), you might get assigned some super-small campsites. We had a small group at Papoose Creek, where there was no room for tents, so we slept in bags on the sand. The Forest Service provides a list of all the camps here.
- Reserve your pre-launch campsites at Boundary Creek. Your permit holder, at least, needs to be on the scene the day before launch to participate in the campsite selection process so reserving a campsite at Boundary Creek for the night before is handy. It’s best if your whole party can rendezvous the day before launch. During high season (June 15 through August 15), only 5 campsites are available at Boundary Creek per night. You can reserve Boundary Creek campsites here.
- Reserve your vehicle shuttle. Here’s a list of several outfits offering Middle Fork vehicle shuttles.
- Central Idaho River Shuttles 208-507-1830
- Blackadar Boating 208-756-3958
- River Shuttles 208-756-4188
- Salmon River Services 800-785-7198
- Buy an Idaho Invasive Species sticker for each boat in your party that is more than 10 feet long.. Every boat that launches in Idaho waters must have an invasive species sticker, sales of which fund boat inspections, washing stations, and information about how to keep invasive species (such as quagga mussels) out of Idaho. You can read more about this and buy your Idaho Invasive Species stickers here.
- Pack and go. For packing ideas, see our river trip planning guide section here.
Cherish your Middle Fork trip
This post can’t possibly do justice to the experience of running the Middle Fork. We hope you get a chance to see it for yourself. If you are lucky enough to pull a permit, or you’ve already run it a time or two and want to add your tips and advice, jump in here with your comments.
See you on the river!
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